Portland Cartopia

Just in time for summer, I'm raving about food fit for dining al fresco: Portland food carts!

For years street food has had cultural importance worldwide, and it has become increasingly popular in the states. Exotic, sometimes unimaginably intricate creations are cranked out of the tiniest of kitchens daily. With all due respect to our fabulous chefs and restauranteurs, some of Portland's best cuisine is on the streets.

Some say the trend has been taken too far. Gourmet this, push the boundaries that... I say, the more the merrier. There are just too many carts to cover in a single diatribe, so I'll start with the goods in my 'hood, inner SE Portland.


Cartopia: Corner of SE 12th and Hawthorne

Potato Champion holds a special place in my heart.
This was my first foray into the world of poutine, and no other Portland restaurant can hold a candle. A Canadian favorite, poutine is a soul warming pile of fries topped with squeaky cheese curds and brown gravy. Potato Champion does a great twice-fried, Belgian style fry, poutine or not. You can go with the Belgians' dip of choice - and my fave- mayo. But even THIS gives you options. Pesto mayo, tarragon anchovy mayo, wasabi or chipotle mayo, Ay, caramba! Not a fan of the mayo? Their ketchup & mustard selection runs deep as well.
Hang out at this hipster favorite for other delectables like PB&J fries, featuring peanut satay sauce and raspberry chipotle jelly.


Perierra Crêperie
Whether you're in the mood for something sweet or savory, Perierra's crisp, thin, crepes have mountains of flavor combinations. My go-to dinner crepe is the meat centric version with Italian style cured meats, gruyère and spinach, but there are plenty of veggie or vegan arrangements as well. Bridging the sweet and salty gap is a Nutella and precuitto number (although they've skimped a bit on the prescuitto in my opinion) or perhaps the gorgonzola-pear-walnut . Desserts are abound with lemon curd, honey n' fig, plantain and Nutella ...... or may I suggest a shake? Inspired flavors like lavender-honey-cardamom and avocado are worth the calories the full fat milk instills.


Whiffies Fried Pies - Keeping with the sweet-or-savory theme, Whiffie's will see you through dinner or dessert, or both, if you like fried pies that much. The menu changes seasonally, and can include savory fare such as bbq beef brisket with mozzarella, chicken pot pie and mac n' cheese with bacon. Contributing to the sweet team, pies with apple and berries galore, peanut butter chocolate chip. In grand Portland style, vegan and veggie options are always present. The pie itself boasts a flaky and crisp crust, with enough density to partner well with the filling.
I munched on the pumpkin creation all last fall, and always enjoy the beef brisket - sharp and tangy, not overwhelmingly barbeque-y, and lots of gooey cheese. Pies are made to order and piping hot!


Pyro Pizza. Wood fired and delicious. Aside from having a giant, wood-fire oven, they've got an organic, sustainable waste not, want not attitude. Get your pie shroomed out, extra meaty, cheesey, vegan ... You'll wait the longest at this cart, and probably pay the most for a single item, but their caramelized onion pie is worth it. Loaded with fragrant gorgonzola, and topped with pistachios, also wood fired, enhancing the nuttiness. I am dying to try their handiwork with white truffle oil. The pie is simply prepared with with romano and black pepper.


Also present, a Cajun and a Mexican mission style burrito cart. I've sampled both and have not been back to either, so I will not be gushing on. I found Bubba Bernie's offerings to be a tad dry and under-seasoned, and while the burritos at El Brasero aren't bad, there are so many superior options in this cartopia that I've found no reason to return.


Party all night, as much of Cartopia is geared toward the after hours, drunk munchies crowd and is open until 3am. But beware, most carts are closed on Mondays, so options are limited.






Obsessed with Oregon "vino-culture"? - A great place to read about Oregon Pinot Noir.

Pleasure to Meet You, Mr. Ned Ludd

Allow me to make your next meal out decision a little easier: Introduce yourself to Ned Ludd.

Winning rave reviews all around, Ned Ludd is a true Portland gem; a cozy little romantic restaurant nestled on NE MLK.

The decor, decisively Pacific Northwest: Reclaimed timber, retro fixtures, big wooden barrels lounging around ... you almost expect a lumber jack to come lumbering into the dining room. Luckily, the image of bearded men in plaid flannel shirts is romantic to the femmes of P-Town. Another very Portland-y quality; Ned Ludd uses nothing but locally sourced cuisine - some as close as the restaurant's backyard. It's simple and ever changing, boasting charcuterie made mere miles away, greens and herbs that meet the criteria of whatever is available outside.

Owners Ben Meyer and Jason French took over the space of a former pizzeria and stuck with the wood oven, cooking exclusively with it. Ain't no fancy machines taking over this Ned Ludd. Despite everything being cooked in a wood fired oven, the menu is satisfyingly not monotone and divided into four sections:

forebits
kaltbits
warm bits
plats

Let's dig in!

Forebits: Monsieur Boy and I greedily nab the biggest charcuterie plate on the menu. The kitchen selection board is home to an extravagant mix of prescuitto, salumi, rillette, and cheeses of different textures and creatures. The usual crudites included, pickled, and in top form. A good charcuterie plate is a wonderful way to explore a medley of flavor with a fellow foodie, comparing combinations to create best practices for future bites.

Kaltbits: The friendly wait staff explains what "kaltbits" means in a non-condescending way (German, "cold" bits - salads, to be precise). We go with the arugula with duck confit, what else? The rich, fatty element of the confit plays off the bitterness of the arugula so well. And staying true to the locale, hazelnuts add a crunchy, earthy component to tie it all together.

Warm Bits: Meat pie! (the ! is on the menu; much deserved). Ned Ludd, you are quite the matchmaker. This is the perfect creation for a carnivore such as myself. The pie is filled with .... get ready ..... FIVE different beasts! Cow, swine, lamb, rabbit, and chicken. There was no way I was not ordering this dish. A flaky, buttery crust encompasses the meaty filling, aromatic with red wine.

Plats: My fish-o-choice was smoked cod, with a satisfying portion of mussels swimming around in a delightful smoky-sweet broth. Moist and bursting with complex flavor, not a bite was left on my plate, as even the last drops of creamy sauce were sopped up with bread. M. Boy goes for the ruby trout with a confit of fennel, sipping his sauv blanc between mouthfuls.

Balancing well with both meat and my cod dish, why a delicious full-bodied glass of Oregon Pinot Noir. Earthy and fruity notes compliment the smokey, spicy complexity of the cod and the rich meat pie with ease.

Oh yes, I nearly forgot the rearbits; dessert items garnering their own menu. Rearbits, dear reader, you will have to discover for yourself. This food face was so full from rounds 1-4, the last sip of pinot was the perfect ending.


3925 NE MLK
* parking on the south side of the building
http://nedluddpdx.com/

Obsessed with Oregon "vino-culture"? - A great place to read about Oregon Pinot Noir.

Scrawny Birds and Fish Eyeballs: I Heart Olympic Provisions

Monsieur boy and I attended another delightful Portland Audubon presentation last night, which got us thinking ….. about marinated quail a la plancha, a staple at Olympic Provisions.

The Quail a la Plancha- literally translated to “grilled on a plate”- is made right before your eyes, as is everything at Olympic Provisions, if you are fortunate enough to nab a seat at the bar. Watching the chefs at work is like watching performance art. There is a fluid, symbiotic relationship between the cooks that is just fascinating to observe. Their grilling plate is the cooking surface they use to create most of their meat/fish dishes. Order Up! One quail, and one seared sardine.

But of course, we must start with cured meats! The charcuterie plate is a must, as Olympic Provisions is Oregon’s first USDA certified meat-curing facility. Links of chorizo, sopressatta, and other salamis dangle oh-so-fetchingly behind the kitchen. Add to it their creamy pork liver mousse and rillettes, cornichons, and what appears to be house-made mustard. Mmmmm …. must …. get …… meat ….. now. I am a sucker for “rustic” or “old world” cuisine, and these guys have it down pat; pure and simple, but certainly not primitive.

Now the quail dish enters the scene. The first bite I plunge into, I get a salty, bacony resonance with the tender meat. Next bite, filled with a fantastic stuffing primarily of pine nuts and raisins. The kicker: Basmati rice with cilantro yogurt. Bright and tangy. I’ve never had rice quite like this. I am ready to lick the ramekin clean.

I recover with a sip of wine and carry on. Sardines! Seared with pickled raisins and tomatoes. Crispy, flaky skin lightly topped with vinaigrette gives way to the briny little treasure inside. You can’t be afraid of ingesting a few minuscule bones – you’ve got to get every morsel of flesh these little guys have. Speaking of every morsel, it’s time for a dare; fish eyeballs. Being a fan of Andrew Zimmern and his bizarre food adventures, I know that you are required to try everything at least twice before giving your final appraisal. Thus, I am committed to two sardine eyeballs. Not too bad, once you get over the challenging texture. It’s kind of like eating a mini, peeled Concord grape, complete with seed inside. Congratulations from boy, more wine, and back to the good stuff.


107 SE Washington
Olympic Provisions is in the industrial district, within the old B&O warehouse that has been remodeled into the Olympic Mills Commerce Center . The building now hosts local art, a fabulous looking (though rarely open) wine shop, and other enterprises.